There are some very interesting things going on in Champagne’s most southerly and until-recently-least-fashionable growing region. Aube's grapes have traditionally been undervalued by the rest of Champagne, largely due to geography (its vineyards are actually closer to Chablis than to Reims or Épernay). But actually, Aube has used this distance to its advantage, first of all by focusing on Pinot Noir, which grows particularly well in its warmer climate and limestone-clay soils.
Crucially, the region has also been less swayed by the tide of tradition in Champagne, which is why grower-producers started springing up here way before the term became fashionable in the Marne.
Champagne Germar Breton is one such producer, and this very impressive Blanc de Noirs is a testament to the singularity of their vision. It’s 100% Pinot Noir, so a perfect expression of what Aube is all about. Better still, the base wine was fermented in stainless steel to keep the fruit pure and fresh… but there is also plenty of interest and complexity from a couple of years' lees ageing. The result is an explosion of fruit in the glass (red berries, peaches, apricots, melons) rounded out by these beautiful honey and brioche notes. Delicious any time from aperitif through to dessert… and very keenly priced too.