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Fifty Years of Breaky Bottom! Celebrating one of Sussex's first and finest vineyards

Fifty Years of Breaky Bottom! Celebrating one of Sussex's first and finest vineyards

In 1974 Peter Hall planted his first vines in the valley known as Breaky Bottom, near to Rodmell in East Sussex. He planted Seyval Blanc and Muller Thurgau, hardy grape varieties suited to the cool climate, and produced still white wines inspired by those from the Loire Valley which he knew well from his French restaurateur grandfather. Converting the 1827 flint barn into a winery with equipment acquired on a shoestring budget and ingenuity, he was able to craft some of the first English wines to receive real positive acclaim - in 1993 his 1990 vintage Seyval Blanc won a gold medal at the International Wine Challenge.

Peter with his first press in the 1970s

We at Butlers have been working with Breaky Bottom wines for about as long as we have existed, Henry's father was among those who sold those early still white wines and a young Henry would spend weekends at the farm playing with the sheep and pigs that Peter kept alongside his vines - he still maintains a 40-strong herd of sheep to this day! Peter and his wife Christine are great friends of ours and days picking grapes with them before enjoying a harvest lunch together are always a highlight in autumn.

A big change came in 2000 when Peter released his first sparkling wine, a varietal Seyval Blanc from the 1995 vintage and a tremendous success, leading him to focus on sparkling wine exclusively. In 2002 and 2004 Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier vines were planted, completing the quartet of varieties that make up the 6 acre Breaky Bottom vineyard today. The great understanding that Peter has of his land and his vines certainly contributes to the continued excellence of the wines to this day. The excellent, free-draining chalk soil and sheltered location of the vineyard in the valley make for a superb terroir for the vines, and Peter's commitment to picking late into October allows for optimal development of ripe flavour in the berries. After bottling the wines typically receive a generous aging on the lees, and often further maturation post disgorging, giving richness and complexity always balanced by minerality and crisp acidity.

Only Vintage wines are made, each release reflecting the conditions of the year that produced it. In a good year around 10,000 bottles will be produced but sometimes it is much fewer than that. Most years there is a blend of the Chardonnay and Pinots and a single varietal Seyval Blanc released, with the occasional exception where all of the varieties are blended together. Each cuvee is named after as friend of the Halls, including Jack Pike who helped plant the vineyard back in 1974 and Lewes-based poets John Agard and Grace Nichols.

We are delighted to be able to offer a large selection of Breaky Bottom wines in our shop, including some remarkable back vintages!

Cuvee Andrew Davis 2016 Chardonnay Pinot Brut - £35.50

From an excellent and well-balanced vintage for English sparkling wine, this blend of the trio of Champagne varieties exemplifies the house style of Breaky Bottom. Lovely developed baked apple and marzipan aromas alongside fresh citrus notes make for a complete and attractive nose. The palate is precise and dry with lovely persistent fizz and a delicate interplay between generous brioche and flinty minerality. A superb all-rounder perfect for pairing with scallops or crab.

Cuvee Grace Nichols 2017 Seyval Blanc Brut - £32.50

I have always had a particular affinity for Peter's sparkling Seyval Blanc wines, with their striking notes of green fruit, sherbet and salinity. The 2017 is no exception, long, firm and bone dry but effortlessly graceful at the same time. The pithy citrus and underripe greengage character elevated by a touch of honey and toast. A magical aperitif or partner for sashimi.

Cuvee Noella 2018 Blanc de Noirs Brut - £35.50

In one of the warmest years ever in Sussex, with a gorgeous Indian summer lasting well into October, ripeness was at an all time high. Peter, ever attuned to the state of his vineyard recognised the quality of his Pinot Noir and Meunier fruit and took the opportunity to produce his first ever Blanc de Noirs. It is a resounding success, fleshy and mouthfilling with pink grapefruit, white peach and mirabelle fruit notes and a divinely smooth finish. A brilliant gastronomic sparkling wine that would pair excellently with foods ranging from pan-seared duck breast to mild and creamy curries.

Cuvee Oliver Minkley 2011 Chardonnay Pinot Seyval Blanc Brut - £67.95

A special rarity, aged for 6 years on lees and 7 more under cork, this comes from a small vintage in which the Seyval and Champagne varieties were all combined in a blend that totalled just 2604 bottles. The age has contributed to the stunning complexity of this wine, with rich buttery pastry and quince jam giving a luxurious sensation to the nose. None of the purity and freshness has been lost, with the wine maintaining the delicious dryness and minerality of the younger wines alongside a great array of orchard and stone fruits, honey and sweet spice. A rare beauty to sip and contemplate this unique vineyard and its special place in the history of English winemaking.

 

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