Rias Baixas, on the Galician coast, is synonymous with the Albarino variety. Split into five sub-regions, the vineyards spread north from the Portuguese border to the Ulla valley, just south of Santiago de Compostela.

Unlike most of Spain's winegrowing regions, which battle intense heat and often drought conditions, Rias Baixas is cool and rainy - the annual rainfall here is similar that in Wales! Galicia is a verdant region, and this abundance of water means grapevines grow vigorously in the river valleys on the unique local granite soil known as xabre.

The Albarino grape is suited brilliantly to this variety. The grapes have quite thick skins, which help them to grow in a wetter climate without succumbing to fungal diseases, and soak up the sun in summertime to ripen well at a moderate degree of alcohol. Much of the Albarino in Galicia is still trained on the traditional pergola system; in the past this was to allow farmers to maximise their space and grow other crops beneath the pergola but it also has the benefit of spreading the canopy and catching maximal sunshine on the leaves.

Nowhere consumes more seafood per person than Galicia, and a crisp Albarino makes the ideal partner for fish, octopus, scallops and oysters etc!

Terras de Compostela Albarino Rias Baixas 2021 - £17.49

A family estate in Cambados, Val do Salnes, Terras de Compostela are among those using this traditional method of training their vines. After hand-harvesting at the end of September, the grapes are crushed and then gently pressed before fermenting at cool temperatures in stainless steel tanks. The wine is allowed to rest on its fine lees before bottling, developing the flavour and enhancing the body of the wine.

Lemon zest and white peach aromas meet sea-salt minerality and a hint of florality on the nose. The palate is crisp, dry and persistent with lingering citrus fruits on the refined finish. It's classic Albarino executed wonderfully.

Condes de Albarei La Huida Albarino Rias Baixas 2023 - £15.75

Condes de Albarei was founded in 1988 by a group of growers choosing to join together to share knowledge and help to spread their love for Albarino internationally. They had a major breakthrough 3 years later when they made the first Spanish white wine to win gold at Bordeaux's prestigious Challenge International du Vin.

Sourced from pergola-trained vineyards across Val do Salnes, La Huida is a fruity expression of Albarino with alluring orange blossom and nectarine aromas. The slightly broader frame and riper fruit makes this an Albarino to pair with stronger flavours like garlic prawns in mussels in Thai green curry.

Benito Santos Albarino Rias Baixas 2022 - £18.99 Organic, Vegan

One of the region's founding wineries, Benito Santos was instrumental in the creation of the region's DO in the 1980s. Growing up he worked in his grandfather's vineyards, making wine that was sold in the family's bar. He was a firm believer that great wines are made in the vineyard, converting to modern trellising and organic viticulture which is continued on the estate today. Under current winemaker Jose Antonio Porte, they have maintained the quality and continued to pursue sustainability - they recently drastically reduced the weight of their glass bottles, a substantial reduction in carbon footprint.

After pressing, the juice is fermented with only the naturally occurring yeasts and minimal addition of sulphur. 6 months ageing on lees helps contribute to the intense mineral style of the wine. Punchy, bone-dry and unmistakeably Rias Baixas, feeling truly kissed by the sea breeze with the saline edge to its lemon and apple fruit. Long in the finish, its just the wine for sitting out on a summer evening with fried calamari, whitebait or good quality tinned fish.