It seems that people expect a Sideways reference whenever Merlot is brought up, so I'm getting it out of the way at the start. Merlot is a wonderful grape, so is Pinot Noir, and that is a movie I am sick of hearing about!
Merlot is the wine world's comfort food, a grape that tends to generous fruitiness with gentle tannin and acidity in most cases. It's origin is in Southwest France, with the first named references in Bordeaux in the 18th century. It is in Bordeaux that Merlot still reaches it's highest heights, both as a blending partner to temper Cabernet Sauvignon's severe structure in the Medoc and on its own in the opulent wines of Saint Emilion and Pomerol.
Globally Merlot is the second-most planted wine grape variety in the world, pipped only by its regular companion Cabernet Sauvignon. The Americas, South Africa, Australia and Italy are all important sources of good quality Merlot. Depending on climate and winemaking style, wines can vary from fresh and medium-bodied, with red fruit and savoury character, to rich and rounded, often developing chocolate and plum flavours in warmer climates.
Chateau Rol Valentin Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2016 - £55.95 Sustainable
The Right Bank of Bordeaux is the obvious place to start when talking about Merlot. The clay-limestone soils and moderate climate working to produce dense and complex wines with perfectly balanced power and elegance.
Chateau Rol Valentin is a small producer, especially by Bordeaux standards, making just 25,000 bottles of this Grand Vin. A blend of 90% Merlot with 10% Cabernet Franc, meticulously sorted by hand in the winery, and aged 14-16 months in French oak barrels before blending and bottling.
The excellent 2016 vintage opens with an alluring and heady aroma of ripe red plums, lavender and star anise. The palate is full-bodied and luscious, with finely grained tannins and rich red fruits carried through an excellent finish.
Kleine Oranjerie Flora and Fauna Merlot 2023 - £9.99 Sustainable, Vegan
South Africa has a long history of producing excellent wines from Bordelaise grape varieties in a range of styles. This great value example comes from the warm Paarl region and is made by the excellent team at the Wildeberg winery.
Plush and chocolatey, with sweet blackberry and Victoria plum aromas. Soft tannins and lots of dark fruit on the palate make for an easygoing style, perfect for wintery nights in with comforting food!
Waterstone Napa Valley Merlot 2018 - £36.50
While Cabernet may be king in Napa, Merlot is also exceptionally successful in the heart of the Californian wine industry. Waterstone Winery work with trusted growers to produce reasonably priced wines that show off classic varietal character in Napa, under the careful eye of talented winemaker Brent Shortridge.
Their Merlot comes largely from the Truchard vineyard in Carneros, a slightly cooler sub-region influenced by coastal breezes, and is aged for 20 months in French oak.
Very bold and intense on the nose, with blueberry and black cherry, almost like pie filling with the hint of vanilla and cream. Plush and luxurious, with mouthfilling fine tannin giving nice structure. A lovely long finish with silky black fruits completes the delicious experience.
Rugra Merlot Pruno Rosso 2022 - £16.50 Organic, Biodynamic, No Added Sulphites, Vegan
Merlot has been grown in Italy since at least the 19th century and gained additional traction since the birth of the Super Tuscan movement in the 1980s, with prices to match the most sought after of Bordeaux! This Merlot is something totally different, from a tiny biodynamic farm in Piemonte, where the grape is not permitted - it is labeled as Vino d'Italia for that reason. Luigi Zucchi of Rugra has just 4ha of vines alongside animals and other crops, the Pruno Rosso coming from a single plot of half a hectare of Merlot. Fermented with natural yeast with no addition of sulphites at any point, this is a really excellently made natural wine - classic and clean without any overly wild or barnyardy character.
Spicy and expressive on the nose, with tamarind and cinnamon alongside red cherry and savoury mushroom aromas. Medium-bodied with a nice grip of tannin and moreish acidity alongside more savoury red fruits. A really excellent food wine, which will partner roasted vegetables, mushroom and lentil dishes deliciously.
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